Greg Long had spent more than 15 years of his life chasing big waves. Surfing giants was all about the rush, the adrenaline, the achievement. Finding bigger and better waves, pushing his personal limits. But surviving big waves? That was all about preparation..
It is true that today’s broad surfing community possesses variable – and sometimes questionable – understanding of surfing etiquette…
BillabongXXL.com. Greg Long of San Clemente, California, gets one of the greatest big wave paddle-in tubes ….
After nearly drowning, a big-wave surfer comes back to win his sport’s biggest title.
Ask big-wave legend Greg Long what really gets him stoked and he’ll tell you that it’s not the adrenaline, not the green room, but rather redrawing the map of where people can surf.
Greg Long is recognized as one of surf’s thoughtful ambassadors, penning expression to waves where words normally wouldn’t do.
This winter has been one for the record books. With a massive El Nino producing swells of enormous proportions, big wave surfers have well and truly been getting their fill of waves that most normal surfers want no part of.
It takes a particular kind of crazy to ride a 75-foot mountain of water—unless you’re Greg Long, a calm, well-adjusted dude who approaches surfing like he’s playing chess.