Greg Long Professional Surfer

21364

home,page-template,page-template-full_width,page-template-full_width-php,page,page-id-21364,stockholm-core-2.3,select-child-theme-ver-1.1,select-theme-ver-9.0,ajax_fade,page_not_loaded,,qode_menu_,wpb-js-composer js-comp-ver-6.6.0,vc_responsive

Puerto Escondido

European Vacation Photo: @manu__miguelez

European Vacation

Photo: @manu__miguelez

A distant desert dream. Video: @javier.goya @p

A distant desert dream.

Video: @javier.goya

@patagonia_surf
@christensonsurfboards
@parley.tv
@otiseyewear
@clifbar
@kleankanteen

The fossil fuel industry is destroying our oceans

The fossil fuel industry is destroying our oceans and future! Despite being just days after the COP26 climate conference where global leaders agreed on the urgent need for climate action and ecological preservation, on Dec. 1 Shell Oil will begin catastrophic seismic surveying off the coast of South Africa in search of oil or gas deposits.

The vessel operated by Shell Exploration will, for five months, drag up to 48 air guns methodically through 6,011km² of ocean surface, from Morgan Bay to Port St Johns, (The Transkei Coast) firing extremely loud shock wave emissions that penetrate through 3km of water and 40km into the Earth’s crust below the seabed. The ship will work around the clock, firing the air guns every 10 seconds. In the process, marine life on the sensitive Wild Coast will be panicked and damaged.

It is time we hold government and industry accountable. We need systemic change that protects our natural world, rather than exploiting it.

Link in bio to learn more and sign the petition objecting to Shell and CGG’s seismic surveys.

For those friends in South Africa, you can join the protest in person:

Sunday November 21:

5:30 am V&A waterfront Robben island gate way (as vessel arrives)

12:00 pm Muizenberg beach (silent walk to Kalk Bay)

@oceansnotoil
@parley.tv
@sentinelocean
@the_litterboom_project

Perfect timing. Photo: @higherlatitude_films

Perfect timing.

Photo: @higherlatitude_films

Are the recent advancements in big wave safety equ

Are the recent advancements in big wave safety equipment and protocols actually making big wave lineups more dangerous?

Most technological advancements begin with altruistic intentions. But time and again we have seen some of the greatest revolutionizing inventions have unforeseen devastating negative impacts down the line. Which leads me to wonder, have the invention of inflation vests, and implementation of water rescue gone beyond their original intended use as back up safety, and now setting the stage for more reckless surfing and dangerous lineups?

I scratched down some thoughts on the matter along with the opinions of some prominent fixtures on the big wave scene.

“The Big Wave Safety Paradox” is up over on @patagonia ‘s Cleanest Line blog. Link in Bio.

Photo: @fred_pompermayer

Ask any accomplished photographer and they will li

Ask any accomplished photographer and they will likely agree, Puerto Escondido ranks among the most challenging breaks in the world to swim and photograph when big. With treacherous rips, and the inevitable rogue set to catch you inside, the number of photographers who have given it an honest attempt are limited. Rightfully so as deliberately putting oneself in the impact zone out there takes a level of fitness, wave knowledge, and confidence most do not possess.

Years ago during a big day, a lone swimmer in the impact zone caught my attention. Not making any attempt to swim in or out, I thought something may be wrong and paddled over to check if they needed help. As i neared, I watched them gracefully swim, beneath a thick close out set, camera water housing in tow. Shortly after, a cleanup set arrived sending all surfers scrambling to make it over the top. As I sprint paddled to do the same, all I could think was, “that poor photographer is in a terrible spot.” Scratching over three successive waves, I turned to check if they had somehow made it through. They were gone, buried somewhere inside getting tossed around by the pounding whitewater. Minutes passed before I spotted them clambering up the sand 100 yards down the beach.

45 minutes later, still waiting for my first wave, the sight of somebody swimming caught my attention again. Out past the lineup, coming from down by the harbor, I recognized the quintessential one arm stroke of somebody dragging a heavy water housing behind. It was the same photographer. Head down, @mariafernandaphoto proceeded to swim past, confidently returning to the same position inside, for another attempt at connecting with one of the many surfers on their next great ride.

Seldom goes a big swell that you won’t find Maria out bravely & brilliantly navigating the treacherous lineup at Puerto with her camera. Her images offer the rarest of perspectives at one of the most magnificent and dangerous waves in the world. This recent sequence, is undoubtedly the most perfect wave I have ever ridden out there. Surfing was the easy part, credit goes to @mariafernandaphoto for her tireless commitment to getting the shot.

Load More... Follow on Instagram