Greg Long Professional Surfer |

Greg Long Professional Surfer |

21364

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Puerto Escondido

Just another conquistador of the useless. Isla T

Just another conquistador of the useless.

Isla Todos Santos 1/11/21

Photo: @nuttynulty

2020: Definitely a little messed up, awkward, and

2020: Definitely a little messed up, awkward, and concerning at times but still enjoyable once you settled into the funkiness of it all. Big love to everyone as we move onward and upward into the new year.

Paddling out beyond the early morning crowd that h

Paddling out beyond the early morning crowd that had assembled, I looked shoreward and quickly identified the row of old growth pines up the valley. Standing tall, like wise elders, these trees had become steadfast guides over the years, helping me to orient in the expansive and shifting playing field. I adjusted my position, placing them evenly between the mountains behind and settled in to wait. Some call it stubbornness, and others wisdom, but unless a wave comes within a few feet in either direction of my lineup, I won’t try and catch it. Refusing to do so often results in hours of waiting. But time passes quick as senses are in overdrive scrutinizing each approaching wave looking for one that speaks to me, while simultaneously subduing nerves of excitement and fear with deep rhythmic breaths.

It is said that when you find true love in life, you just know. There is no doubt, but rather an existential knowing that you are meant to be with that person. Every so often, I have found that a big wave can carry this same energy; where on first sight, you know that it was meant for you. Two hours later, with a deep blue wall stretching from peak to channel, my wave arrived offering such a level of trust and confidence. Without reservation, I turned and paddled…

Link in bio for my full account of this epic day at Peahi over on the @otiseyewear blog page.

@otiseyewear
#Journeyoframe

Video: @ryan.moss

Is there a way down the cliff? Hike or paddle acr

Is there a way down the cliff? Hike or paddle across? Is it just a distant mirage?

Pic: @almackinnon

@kleankanteen

If you love the outdoors, vote for them. ⁠ Tomo

If you love the outdoors, vote for them.
⁠
Tomorrow night I will be joining @parley.tv for a special screening of #PurpleMountainsFilm, which follows pro snowboarder @jeremyjones as he navigates the political divide on climate change in the heart of America’s purple states, and finds that our shared love of the outdoors unites us. ⁠
⁠
Screening is this Friday 10/29 at 9pm ET / 6pm PT with a special Q&A with @jeremyjones, @joshbonesmurphy and scientist-surfer @cliff_kapono
⁠
Find the link in bio or sign up for the screening over at @parley.tv.

We are now just one week away from the most import

We are now just one week away from the most important election of our lifetimes and your vote is your voice as to what the future has in store. Please use it to support those candidates who will work to protect and re-instate the respectful and harmonious relationship we are meant to have with the ocean, the planet and one another. 🌊 🌎 ✌🏽

@surfrider

Video: @lieberfilms
@isiraider.frames

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