Greg Long Professional Surfer

21364

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Puerto Escondido

Are the recent advancements in big wave safety equ

Are the recent advancements in big wave safety equipment and protocols actually making big wave lineups more dangerous?

Most technological advancements begin with altruistic intentions. But time and again we have seen some of the greatest revolutionizing inventions have unforeseen devastating negative impacts down the line. Which leads me to wonder, have the invention of inflation vests, and implementation of water rescue gone beyond their original intended use as back up safety, and now setting the stage for more reckless surfing and dangerous lineups?

I scratched down some thoughts on the matter along with the opinions of some prominent fixtures on the big wave scene.

“The Big Wave Safety Paradox” is up over on @patagonia ‘s Cleanest Line blog. Link in Bio.

Photo: @fred_pompermayer

Ask any accomplished photographer and they will li

Ask any accomplished photographer and they will likely agree, Puerto Escondido ranks among the most challenging breaks in the world to swim and photograph when big. With treacherous rips, and the inevitable rogue set to catch you inside, the number of photographers who have given it an honest attempt are limited. Rightfully so as deliberately putting oneself in the impact zone out there takes a level of fitness, wave knowledge, and confidence most do not possess.

Years ago during a big day, a lone swimmer in the impact zone caught my attention. Not making any attempt to swim in or out, I thought something may be wrong and paddled over to check if they needed help. As i neared, I watched them gracefully swim, beneath a thick close out set, camera water housing in tow. Shortly after, a cleanup set arrived sending all surfers scrambling to make it over the top. As I sprint paddled to do the same, all I could think was, “that poor photographer is in a terrible spot.” Scratching over three successive waves, I turned to check if they had somehow made it through. They were gone, buried somewhere inside getting tossed around by the pounding whitewater. Minutes passed before I spotted them clambering up the sand 100 yards down the beach.

45 minutes later, still waiting for my first wave, the sight of somebody swimming caught my attention again. Out past the lineup, coming from down by the harbor, I recognized the quintessential one arm stroke of somebody dragging a heavy water housing behind. It was the same photographer. Head down, @mariafernandaphoto proceeded to swim past, confidently returning to the same position inside, for another attempt at connecting with one of the many surfers on their next great ride.

Seldom goes a big swell that you won’t find Maria out bravely & brilliantly navigating the treacherous lineup at Puerto with her camera. Her images offer the rarest of perspectives at one of the most magnificent and dangerous waves in the world. This recent sequence, is undoubtedly the most perfect wave I have ever ridden out there. Surfing was the easy part, credit goes to @mariafernandaphoto for her tireless commitment to getting the shot.

If you want to help make a difference and take imm

If you want to help make a difference and take immediate action on the climate crisis, now is the time, and it only take 5 minutes!

Go to Call4Climate.com now and urge your lawmaker to take bold action on climate.

All of the instructions you need are on the website or just call and follow the prompts below:

Dial 202-951-7780 to reach your Senators and representatives.
When someone picks up, you can use the sample below or use your own words and add your own reasons for demanding action on climate change.

Hi, my name is [YOUR NAME] and I’m calling from [YOUR CITY/TOWN] because I’m very concerned about climate change. [ADD YOUR OWN REASONS HERE - THIS COULD BE THINGS LIKE “I WANT MY KIDS/GRANDKIDS TO INHERIT A HEALTHY PLANET” or “WE LIVE IN AN AREA WHERE WILDFIRES ARE BECOMING AN ANNUAL THREAT” “THE ICE STORM LAST WINTER DISRUPTED OUR LIVES FOR WEEKS AND COST $XXX IN REPAIRS”]

I’m calling to ask the [Senator/Representative] to support big, bold climate action that invests at the scale of the crisis. There are four very important things I believe need to be part of any climate legislation:

1. Creating a Clean Electricity Performance Program that cuts pollution and modernizes our grid.

2. Directing 40% of funding to frontline communities.

3. Ending subsidies for fossil fuel corporations.

4. Starting a Civilian Climate Corps that puts people to work.

We’re already living with the early stages of climate change and now is the time we must take bold action to prevent things from getting much worse. There’s no time to waste.

Always grateful to be aligned with brands like @clifbar who are stepping up to support #Call4ClimateNow and always striving to improve and make a difference.

As fun and easy as a Sunday morning gets...@puntac

As fun and easy as a Sunday morning gets...@puntaconejoresort🇲🇽 🌊🙏🏽✨

Video: @nuttynulty

Music: Taj Majal “Ain’t Gwine to Whistle Dixie”

Aquatic Cathedral 🙏🏽🌊 Video: @aguapesad

Aquatic Cathedral 🙏🏽🌊

Video: @aguapesadaphotos

@patagonia_surf
@clifbar
@christensonsurfboards
@kleankanteen
@otiseyewear
@drinkmudwtr

“The act of the ride is the epitome of ‘be her

“The act of the ride is the epitome of ‘be here now,’ and the tube ride is the most acute form of that. Which is: your future is right ahead of you, the past is exploding behind you, your wake is disappearing, your footprints are washed from the sand. It’s a non-productive, non-depletive act that’s done purely for the value of the dance itself. And that is the destiny of man”. -Timothy Leary

Three wave dance to momentary enlightenment. Playa Zicatela, Puerto Escondido, July 2021.

Video: @nuttynulty @tatiananery
Music: @blackrabbitgeorge

@patagonia_surf
@christensonsurfboards
@clifbar
@kleankanteen
@otiseyewear
@drinkmudwtr
@parley.tv

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