Greg Long Professional Surfer

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Puerto Escondido

2024 has been another wild and beautiful ride. Wi

2024 has been another wild and beautiful ride. Wishing everyone an abundance of love and golden moments in the coming year.

Photo: @almackinnon

There are moments in life that words could never f

There are moments in life that words could never fully describe. Experiences felt in the deepest part of your heart and soul they are better held and remembered there.

Getting one last chance to surf @theeddieaikau alongside friends and heroes, and the unexpected honor of receiving the Eddie Aikau “Spirit Award” in memory of Mark Foo was such a moment for me. I won’t try to find words to express how special it was, because they could never do it justice.

I will just say thank you.

Thank you to the Aikau Ohana for keeping the spirit and legacy of Eddie alive with the most beautiful and exhilarating of celebrations, and allowing me to partake for so many years.

Thank you to all the surfers for the endless inspiration both in and out of the water. I feel lucky to have shared so many incredible moments together at Waimea Bay, and call you my friends, and family.

Thank you to the @northshorelifeguardassociation and @hawaiianwaterpatrol for risking your lives, not just during the event, but every single day as guardians of the ocean so everybody can experience its beauty and go home safe. You all are the daily embodiment of Eddie’s spirit.

Thank you to every photographer and filmer for your dedication to capturing these special moments in time so we can remember them more vividly as the years pass and they slowly become diluted in our waterlogged memories.

And thank you to every individual, past, present, and future who plays a part in bringing “The Eddie” to life for the world to experience and remember what is truly important: The love and passion in your heart, grace and humility with which you move through this miracle of a life, and sharing it all along the way.

Participating for 20 years has been the honor and privilege of a lifetime and it is with love, respect, and gratitude, that I say, ALOHA. 🤙🏼

Eddie Would Go!

A few coveted moments over the years captured by:
@malikadudley
@brianbielmann
@toddglaser
@chachfiles
@mikeitophoto
@shane__grace
@zaknoyle
@richardhallman_photo

One last paddle out as an invitee to honor Eddie A

One last paddle out as an invitee to honor Eddie Aikau.

Each year we fill a questionnaire that asks us to express what being invited and winning The Eddie would mean to us. I am sure that every surfer who has penned an answer to those questions has expressed in some form that both would be a dream come true. For 20 years, I have been one of the privileged few who get to answer those questions and can attest that both are exactly that and so much more.

I vividly recall the feelings of elation the first time my name appeared on the alternate list, and years later as an official invitee. I can recount in fine detail both the nerves and excitement the first time “The Bay called the day”, I put on a jersey, and paddled out to surf “The Eddie”. And of course, the ethereal out of body experience in 2009, while in the presence of many of my surfing heroes, found out I had won the event (which Dave Homcy beautifully captured and shared a few posts back). I recognize that as my greatest surfing accomplishment, but of far greater significance than winning, has simply been the honor of participating in the annual celebration of Eddie’s life, and help perpetuate his legacy which represents the things that truly matter: The love and passion in your heart, and grace, integrity, and humility with which you move through the world.

An invitation to compete could be equated to being given a seat on one of the most beautiful, fun, and exhilarating rides in the world, as every ceremony and competition have been just that. But with limited seats, eventually somebody needs to hop off that ride to allow someone else the opportunity to share in that life changing experience. That time has come for me.

My love and gratitude to everyone for the memories made at Waimea Bay, and to the entire Aikau Ohana for their years of aloha, and for giving a young kid from California the opportunity to realize a dream two decades ago.

I will be wishing for big swell to provide one last chance to surf “The Eddie”, and the very best to those who will soon fulfill their dream and hop on for the experience of a lifetime that is an invitation to the @theeddieaikau

Every day is a gift but there are some that stand

Every day is a gift but there are some that stand out above others. Thank you Defender for the invite to “Beach Break” during Ohana Festival weekend and curating an unforgettable morning.

There is nothing that quite compares to the joy of introducing somebody to surfing and the stoke of watching their first ride. From the sun-soaked waves, endless laughter, there was no shortage of unforgettable moments as we celebrated our beloved San Onofre Beach together. Here’s to getting outside with friends both old and new and soaking in the good vibes and ocean energy. #ad #defender #ohanafest #beachbreak @defender

🇲🇽💎 Video: @eli_kirwan

🇲🇽💎

Video: @eli_kirwan

The legendary ocean activist @captainpaulwatson ha

The legendary ocean activist @captainpaulwatson has stood for the oceans for decades, and now he needs us to stand up for him!

On Sunday, July 21st, Captain Paul Watson - founder of SeaShepherd and co-founder of Greenpeace - was arrested in Greenland by Danish authorities on an international warrant issued by Japan. He faces an arrest warrant for opposing illegal whaling in Antarctica. If extradited to Japan, he could receive a 15 year prison sentence!

Captain Paul’s actions have always been in the interest of upholding international laws and ensuring the health of the oceans. Despite doing the work of governments, he is being treated as an international criminal, for defending sea life and the ecosystem we all depend on to survive.⁠ The people who defend our life support system should be celebrated, not arrested!

Please share this far and wide and demand the immediate release of Captain Paul Watson. As a devoted father and passionate environmentalist, he has stood for the oceans for decades, and now he needs us to stand up for him.

To show your support, sign the petition (link in bio) to #FreePaulWatson and follow his foundation @captainpaulwatson for the most recent updates.

@parley.tv

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